La meravigliosa ricetta di oggi, un classico intramontabile di 25 anni fa, attualissimo, perché le felici intuizioni non hanno tempo, l'ho vista realizzare davanti ai miei occhi ammirati e stupiti dal suo autore, il grande Chef Ezio Santin. Un'emozione indescrivibile. Non molto tempo fa ho avuto il piacere di assistere ad una sua dimostrazione nel corso della rassegna Culinaria. Avevo perso l'intera manifestazione, ma quel lunedì pomeriggio me l'ero concesso per assistere alla sua performance. Ho un'autentica venerazione per questo Chef la cui arte culinaria parla di eleganza, stile, scelta certosina della materia prima, raffinatezza e semplicità, intesa come acme della perfezione. Rimpiango di non averlo potuto ammirare nel suo atelier del gusto, l'Antica Osteria del Ponte, meglio conosciuta come "La Cassinetta", che oggi tuttavia vede al timone un giovane, talentoso Chef, Fabio Barbaglini, in un felice e naturale passaggio di consegne. Passaggio che traspare anche dalla proposta, suddivisa in un menu Storia e in un menu innovativo.
Grande emozione. Bellissima lezione. Non solo di talento, stile e maestria, ma anche di umiltà. E garbo. Commovente lo sguardo di amorevole e orgogliosa approvazione con cui lo Chef ha seguito per la sua parte di dimostrazione il suo bravo successore.
Questo piatto trovo che sia un perfetto equilibrio di contrasti, consistenze, sapori e colori. Sapidità, dolcezza, piccantezza. E poi la tenerezza del gambero, la croccantezza del cipollotto, la cremosità del caviale. Un piatto bilanciato in tutto, anche a livello visivo, cromatico. Raffinato, minimalista. In questo piatto c'è lui, Ezio Santin, ci sono il suo garbo, la sua calma, la sua sicurezza, il ritmo dolce e lento delle sue mani che dipingono il piatto in una danza di multiformi sensazioni.
GAMBERI ROSSI MARINATI AL CIPOLLOTTO E CAVIALE DI EZIO SANTIN
Nota: lo Chef Ezio Santin ha utilizzato per questa ricetta gamberi di Sanremo e raccomanda in generale per i crostacei l'utilizzo di oli delicati, di bassa acidità, come gli oli liguri. Come sapete, curo con altre colleghe una rubrica per l'Associazione Nazionale Città dell'Olio. Uno dei fantastici oli che abbiamo presentato è l'Olio evo DOP Riviera Ligure, che ovviamente ho voluto provare nella citronette utilizzata in questa ricetta. Ancora una volta quest'olio mi ha rimandato sensazioni estremamente positive, confermando le impressioni iniziali.
Calcolare 4 gamberi a testa
gamberi rossi
caviale (saranno sufficienti 10 g per 8 gamberi)
cipollotto fresco q.b.
olio evo ligure
1 limone non trattato
sale grosso, qualche scaglia (ho utilizzato sale Maldon)
Tagliare la parte bianca del cipollotto crudo a julienne sottile e metterla in acqua e ghiaccio sin dalla mattina (o qualche ora prima), in modo tale che si arricci. Eliminare la testa e sgusciare le code dei gamberi, privarli del filamento intestinale incidendoli. Preparare una citronette con olio e poco succo di limone. Farvi marinare i gamberi per pochi minuti (non devono cuocere). Togliere il cipollotto dall'acqua, metterlo a scolare, asciugarlo bene e disporlo sul piatto. Aggiungere attorno i gamberi e sopra i gamberi il caviale. Condire il cipollotto con la citronette e i fiocchi di sale. Aggiungere qualche goccia di citronette anche sui gamberi.
Nota: lo Chef Ezio Santin ha utilizzato per questa ricetta gamberi di Sanremo e raccomanda in generale per i crostacei l'utilizzo di oli delicati, di bassa acidità, come gli oli liguri. Come sapete, curo con altre colleghe una rubrica per l'Associazione Nazionale Città dell'Olio. Uno dei fantastici oli che abbiamo presentato è l'Olio evo DOP Riviera Ligure, che ovviamente ho voluto provare nella citronette utilizzata in questa ricetta. Ancora una volta quest'olio mi ha rimandato sensazioni estremamente positive, confermando le impressioni iniziali.
Calcolare 4 gamberi a testa
gamberi rossi
caviale (saranno sufficienti 10 g per 8 gamberi)
cipollotto fresco q.b.
olio evo ligure
1 limone non trattato
sale grosso, qualche scaglia (ho utilizzato sale Maldon)
Tagliare la parte bianca del cipollotto crudo a julienne sottile e metterla in acqua e ghiaccio sin dalla mattina (o qualche ora prima), in modo tale che si arricci. Eliminare la testa e sgusciare le code dei gamberi, privarli del filamento intestinale incidendoli. Preparare una citronette con olio e poco succo di limone. Farvi marinare i gamberi per pochi minuti (non devono cuocere). Togliere il cipollotto dall'acqua, metterlo a scolare, asciugarlo bene e disporlo sul piatto. Aggiungere attorno i gamberi e sopra i gamberi il caviale. Condire il cipollotto con la citronette e i fiocchi di sale. Aggiungere qualche goccia di citronette anche sui gamberi.
Confesso subito di non conoscere lo chef e me ne dispiaccio perché da come ne parli mi sono persa un grande uomo. Il piatto mi piace da impazzire, gamberoni e cipollotto mi sembrano un'accoppiata davvero particolare. Un bacio mia cara amica :)
RispondiEliminaEffettivamente le intuizioni geniali non hanno tempo!
RispondiEliminawow che piatto chic!
RispondiEliminasantin è un grande!
complimenti anche a te ovvio! :D
Questa ricetta, perfetta nella sua semplicità, è la dimostrazione più lampante che con ingredienti di primissima qualità non c'è bisogno di pasticciare: basta poco per esaltarne i sapori e creare un piatto da re.
RispondiEliminaQuesta me la segno (d'altra parte Ezio Santin sapeva certo il fatto suo, anche 25 anni fa!!!) perché mi attira particolarmente.
Un bacione!
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