E' con molto piacere che annuncio il ritorno su questi schermi della Cucina dell'Extravergine, in collaborazione con l'Associazione Nazionale Città dell'Olio.
Si torna in Puglia, ad Andria, con un olio evo monovarietale Coratina di bassa acidità, dai sentori di erba appena tagliata, con notevoli note amare e piccanti, e persistente pizzicore. La Vecchia Macina Agrolio, che si distingue per la cura impiegata in tutte le fasi di produzione e lavorazione, anche grazie alla presenza del frantoio nell'uliveto, viene prodotto dall'azienda di famiglia secondo una tradizione che si tramanda dagli anni '30. Tre generazioni di produttori legati all'amore per la terra si sono alternate coniugando nel tempo tecniche moderne con il rispetto della genuinità e della tradizione.
Ancora oggi vale per quei territori del paesaggio pugliese costellati da ulivi secolari, la regola delle cinque 'S' per l'olivicoltura: Solo, Sole, Sasso, Stabbio, Scure, perché agli ulivi non giova la vicinanza con altre coltivazioni, le piante devono essere baciate dal sole, ergersi su terreni aridi e sassosi, venire concimate e potate periodicamente.
L'olio ottenuto da olive coratina in purezza è un prodotto dalle caratteristiche decise che a volte non incontra il gusto del consumatore. Seguendo questa rubrica ho imparato che la piccantezza di un olio e la nota amara sono caratteristiche pregiate, che danno struttura e personalità al prodotto. Con il tempo si attenuano, ma noi sappiamo che l'olio va consumato giovane, non si lascia in cantina come il vino. Ed è importante sottolineare che queste caratteristiche nulla hanno a che vedere con l'acidità dell'olio, non essendo l'acidità direttamente proporzionale alla presenza di note amare e piccanti. Apriamoci quindi alle suggestioni offerte da questa cultivar e impariamo ad apprezzarne la qualità.
Ho pensato di abbinare quest'olio deciso e dall'aroma fruttato ad una torta rustica ripiena, la cui ricetta è un dono della mia vicina di casa pugliese, di Monopoli, di cui tante volte ho parlato in questo blog. Un omaggio a lei e alla sua terra quindi, da cui quest'olio proviene. Le sue torte rustiche erano paradisiache. Si distinguevano per la morbidezza dello scrigno di pasta e la gustosità e ricchezza dei ripieni. Quella che vi propongo oggi è molto aromatica e saporita. La piccantezza e la nota amarognola dell'olio proposto si sposano bene con la dolcezza delle cipolle, mentre il sentore di erba va a braccetto con l'aroma intenso del finocchietto selvatico.
E come sempre, ho il piacere di farvi incontrare nuovamente le mie compagne d'avventura e le loro interpretazioni di quest'olio:
Patrizia Malomo di Andante con Gusto con Cacciucco di ceci alla seneseTeresa De Masi di Scatti Golosi con Mezzanelli alla finta genovese
Stefania Oliveri di Cardamomo & Co. con Vellutata di lattuga con ricotta fritta
Mi preme salutare Fausta Lavagna di Caffè col Cioccolato che prestissimo si riunirà alla cordata.
TORTA RUSTICA CON FINOCCHIETTO SELVATICO E CIPOLLE DI TROPEA
Ingredienti per una tortiera del diametro di 30 cm.
Per la pasta
1/2 kg di farina 0
2 cucchiai colmi di olio evo La Vecchia Macina Agrolio
2 patate piccole
5 g di lievito di birra
13 g di sale fino
3 g di zucchero
Sbucciare le patate e lessarle. Ridurle a purè nella stessa acqua di cottura. Nella planetaria, sciogliere il lievito in poca acqua tiepida, aggiungere lo zucchero, le patate, l'olio e parte della farina. Impastare bene, unire il sale e la restante farina. Lavorare finché l'impasto non risulti ben incordato. Deve risultare un impasto morbido. Lavorarlo ancora sul piano di lavoro, riporlo in un recipiente coperto con la pellicola e metterlo in frigo a lievitare per tutta la notte. La mattina seguente, tirarlo fuori dal frigo e lasciarlo a temperatura ambiente per un paio d'ore prima di lavorarlo.
Per il ripieno
1 kg e 300 g di cipolle di tropea
90 g di finocchietto selvatico
50 gr di capperi sotto sale
100 g di olive nere saporite
2 cucchiai di pangrattato (più una spolverizzata sulla base della torta)
4 cucchiai di parmigiano reggiano
100 g di olio evo La Vecchia Macina Agrolio
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1 uovo intero per spennellare
Mettere a bagno i capperi. Tagliare finemente le cipolle e scottarle per 5 minuti in acqua bollente. Metterle a scolare. In un tegame largo scaldare l'olio e unire il finocchietto selvatico, farlo appassire appena, unire i capperi dissalati, le cipolle e far stufare a fuoco basso coperto per circa mezzora. Salare e pepare. Lasciar intiepidire e unire a freddo il pangrattato e il parmigiano.
Ungere la tortiera con olio evo, stendere la pasta e rivestirne il fondo. Spolverizzare un po' di pangrattato sulla base della torta, stendere il ripieno, ripiegare i bordi e spennellarli con l'uovo sbattuto. Stendere la rimanente pasta e coprire la base della torta, spingendo sui bordi con i rebbi di una forchetta per sigillarli bene. Bucherellare la superficie della torta per facilitare l'uscita del vapore in cottura e spennellarla con l'uovo sbattuto. Infornare in forno preriscaldato a 180 °C per circa 40 minuti. Lasciar intiepidire e servire a temperatura ambiente.
Amo!
RispondiEliminaGrazie Marina bella :)
Eliminaparticolare davvero!!
RispondiEliminaGrazie! :)
Eliminaciao Sabina, eccomi a fare "il giro" delle mie amiche della Cucina dell'Extravergine e qui trovo... una torta salata e vegetariana. Tu non sai quanto io ami questo genere di preparazioni! Sarà che non la carne non è esattamente la mia passione, sarà che sono nata e vivo in una Terra dove i cibi "poveri" e le torte salate la fanno da padrone. Ecco, questo per dirti che il tuo piatto, caratterizzato da quello splendido olio che anch'io ho avuto la fortuna di assaggiare ( ;)) , sarà "mio".
RispondiEliminaUn grazie anche per le belle parole che hai rivolto a me e... sì, dai, presto sarò di nuovo fra voi. Io non vedo l'ora :))
Un bacione
Grazie a te Fausta per queste belle parole. E fra poco voglio tornare a leggerti. Presto presto. Ti lascio uno spicchio di torta, come faceva la mia vicina di casa. Con affetto e cura. Ti abbraccio forte forte. Sabina
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