Sedia sediola, ...va a scuola, si porta un canestrello pieno pieno di pizzutello, la maestra gli fa festa e glielo butta dalla finestra.
Ho sempre avuto un'antipatia innata per l'insensibilità di questa maestra zoticona. Ma dico, siamo matti? Buttare dalla finestra un frutto così buono e pregiato.
Oggi il mio racconto per il Salone prosegue con un prodotto dell'Arca del Gusto di Slow Food, il Pizzutello di Tivoli, conosciuto anche come uva corna Tiburtina.
Cercando qua e là, ho letto che le prime testimonianze di questo frutto risalgono al 1575, quando Isabella d'Este, in visita a Villa d'Este dopo la morte dello zio Cardinale Ippolito II, scrive dell'uva pizzutello chiamata dai paesani uva corna, per via della forma allungata a forma di cornetto. Prosegue Isabella dicendo che di questa uva ve ne sono due tipi, una bianca e una nera, quest'ultima preferita dalle ragazze del luogo perché, come leggenda narra, pare che faccia gli occhi belli.
Probabilmente, all'epoca, i paesani consumavano il pizzutello come uva da tavola, mentre il cardinale la usava come ornamento, non essendo ritenuta un frutto pregiato.
Fu grazie alla deviazione del fiume Aniene ad opera di Gregorio XVI che la coltivazione del pizzutello si diffuse con fortuna. Rimbalzando le acque deviate del fiume sulle rocce e creando una vaporizzazione consistente, la valle divenne terreno fertile per questa coltivazione, grazie all'abbondante umidità che rese la qualità del frutto superiore.
Si narra che quando Papa Gregorio XVI andò in visita a Tivoli, la cittadina in festa era adornata da archi di pizzutello. Il Pontefice, passando sotto uno di questi archi, si fermò e staccò qualche chicco degustandone la bontà e invitando le persone del suo seguito ad assaggiare alcuni grappoli, incitando anche il popolo a fare altrettanto. A questo episodio si fa risalire la nascita della prima sagra.
Il pizzutello bianco presenta colore variabile dal verde al giallo oro, a seconda del grado di maturazione e ha una buccia finissima. La qualità nera, con un colore viola intenso, ha buccia più consistente che ne consente la conservazione per lunghi periodi, conservando al suo interno l'umidità. Si tratta di un'uva molto zuccherina e croccante che un tempo veniva coltivata rigogliosamente dalle famiglie locali. I grappoli hanno forma allungata e peso consistente. La vendemmia è tardiva.
Oggi purtroppo le coltivazioni nella Valle dell'Aniene si sono drasticamente ridotte per la scarsa capacità retributiva di questo tipo di coltivazioni. Il pizzutello quindi viene prodotto in misura minore nella zona originaria di Tivoli, perdendo parte delle caratteristiche pregiate che ne decretarono la fortuna, non ritrovando in altre zone di coltivazione intensiva lo stesso microclima.
Vi lascio con la ricetta di oggi. Il pizzutello è un'uva molto zuccherina. Ho pensato così di creare un contrasto con il sale dell'Himalaya e la cannella. Non sono un'amante della panna cotta, lo confesso. La trovo stucchevole, soprattutto abbinata all'aroma di vaniglia. Non è fra i miei dolci preferiti. Però ho voluto darle un'altra chance. Ho sostituito la cannella alla vaniglia e ho aggiunto il sale. Posso dire che il risultato mi ha convinta, in contrasto con la dolcezza accentuata della gelatina d'uva. Provatela.
PANNA COTTA AL SALE ROSA DELL'HIMALAYA E CANNELLA CON GELATINA DI PIZZUTELLO NERO DI TIVOLI
Nota: la ricetta della gelatina d'uva l'ho avuta in dono dalla mia amica Roberta de La valigia sul letto, che ringrazio come sempre. Lei mi ha dato la ricetta della gelatina di uva fragola, che ha consistenza e sapore molto diversi da quelli del pizzutello. Così ho cambiato alcune cose rispetto alla ricetta che mi ha gentilmente girato.
Per 6 porzioni
Per la panna cotta
0.5 dl di latte
250 dl di panna liquida
100 g di zucchero a velo
9 g di gelatina in fogli
2 cucchiaini di sale rosa dell'Himalaya
1 stecca di cannella
Per la gelatina d'uva
2 grappoli d'uva pizzutello nera (circa 900 g)
zucchero di canna
Per la guarnizione
Qualche chicco d'uva pizzutello
albume d'uovo
1 pizzico di sale
succo di limone
zucchero semolato
Per 6 porzioni
Per la panna cotta
0.5 dl di latte
250 dl di panna liquida
100 g di zucchero a velo
9 g di gelatina in fogli
2 cucchiaini di sale rosa dell'Himalaya
1 stecca di cannella
Per la gelatina d'uva
2 grappoli d'uva pizzutello nera (circa 900 g)
zucchero di canna
Per la guarnizione
Qualche chicco d'uva pizzutello
albume d'uovo
1 pizzico di sale
succo di limone
zucchero semolato
Lasciare la stecca di cannella in infusione nel latte per 24 ore.
Mettere a bagno i fogli di gelatina in acqua fredda. In una casseruola sbattere il latte con la crema di latte e lo zucchero a velo. Portare a ebollizione, girare bene, unire il sale, girare ancora finché il sale non sarà sciolto, togliere dal fuoco e unire la gelatina strizzata. Mescolare bene. Quando il composto sarà ben liscio versare nei pirottini precedentemente bagnati con acqua ghiacciata. Lasciar raffreddare e riporre in frigo fino al momento di servire.
Lavare i chicchi d'uva e tagliarli a metà. Metterli in una casseruola con mezzo bicchiere d'acqua e far sobbollire per una ventina di minuti, finché i chicchi non risulteranno ben appassiti.
Passare l'uva al passavedura, filtrare il succo ottenuto. Pesarlo. Su 150 g di succo calcolate 20 g di zucchero di canna. Con le quantità indicate otterrete circa 300 g di succo.
Aggiungere lo zucchero al succo, rimettere sul fuoco e far sobbollire fino a gelificazione.
Per i chicchi zuccherati, sbattere un albume d'uovo con un pizzico di sale e una spruzzata di succo di limone. Immergervi i chicchi. Farli scolare dall'albume in eccesso e passarli nello zucchero.
Servire la panna cotta con la gelatina e i chicchi d'uva a guarnire.
Mettere a bagno i fogli di gelatina in acqua fredda. In una casseruola sbattere il latte con la crema di latte e lo zucchero a velo. Portare a ebollizione, girare bene, unire il sale, girare ancora finché il sale non sarà sciolto, togliere dal fuoco e unire la gelatina strizzata. Mescolare bene. Quando il composto sarà ben liscio versare nei pirottini precedentemente bagnati con acqua ghiacciata. Lasciar raffreddare e riporre in frigo fino al momento di servire.
Lavare i chicchi d'uva e tagliarli a metà. Metterli in una casseruola con mezzo bicchiere d'acqua e far sobbollire per una ventina di minuti, finché i chicchi non risulteranno ben appassiti.
Passare l'uva al passavedura, filtrare il succo ottenuto. Pesarlo. Su 150 g di succo calcolate 20 g di zucchero di canna. Con le quantità indicate otterrete circa 300 g di succo.
Aggiungere lo zucchero al succo, rimettere sul fuoco e far sobbollire fino a gelificazione.
Per i chicchi zuccherati, sbattere un albume d'uovo con un pizzico di sale e una spruzzata di succo di limone. Immergervi i chicchi. Farli scolare dall'albume in eccesso e passarli nello zucchero.
Servire la panna cotta con la gelatina e i chicchi d'uva a guarnire.
Sono stata attirata, diciamo calamitata da questa ricetta perchè anch'io non sono un'amante della panna cotta, anzi!:((
RispondiEliminaPerò anch'io voglio darle una seconda....ma che dico, miliardesima possibilità, perchè questa tua "pensata" mi suona centratissima e la mia bocca ha sempre bisogno di conferme!!!!!
Ma io un complimento così me lo stampo e me lo incornicio. Sì, faccio proprio così Fabiana :D Grazieeeeeee!!!!! comunque, anche se è più convincente come versione...sempre di panna cotta si tratta. Che ti devo dire...non la amo. Ora la tollero :D Ti abbraccio forte. Sxxxx
RispondiEliminaUn post molto interessante, ho scoperto queste delizie.... Bravissima!!!!
RispondiEliminaMangerei quella panna cotta in un sol boccone!
Grazie di cuore Michela! Un abbraccio. Sabina
EliminaAdoro la panna cotta e questa tua ricetta mi ispira molto!
RispondiEliminaun caro saluto
Grazie mille, un caro saluto a te!
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RispondiEliminaComplimenti per questa ricetta davvero sfiziosa e particolare ! Mi sono unita alle tue lettrici !! Un saluto e complimenti ancora ! Lisa
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