Adoro, amo con tutta me stessa la pasticceria portoghese. Amo i dolci-dolci al cucchiaio, al limite dello smielato, dalla nota zuccherina preponderante e decisa, ricchi, dove la fanno da padroni crema pasticciera, pistacchi, ricotta, pasta di mandorle, glassa di zucchero, scorze candite di agrumi, riso e latte, cannella, vaniglia. Buffo, perché tendenzialmente preferisco il salato. Fra una fetta di salame e una di crostata, vado verso il salame come un cane da tartufo va verso il...tartufo. Eppure in fatto di dolci ho tendenze smielate. Non conosco mezze misure. E in Portogallo ho trovato l'esatta dimensione del mio concetto di dolce-dolce. Non facevo altro che assaggiare, gioire, chiedere. Credo di aver già scritto del povero cameriere di un ristorante dell'Alentejo, a Evora, cui ho domandato un'infinità di volte come si chiamasse una delizia al cucchiaio dal sapore celestiale che mi aveva appena servito. E lui, poverino, che ripeteva: "Mangiàr Reàl! Mangiàr Reàl!", tentando una sorta di traduzione all'impronta per me. Eh sì, era proprio un mangiare da re!
Potevo quindi non provare un dolce che oltre ad essere un dessert della tradizione, è per giunta di origine portoghese? No che non potevo! E come speravo, una volta assaggiato ho ritrovato di nuovo la perfetta corrispondenza con il mio concetto di dolce. Ed eccomi quindi in veste di Special Ambassador a 'pescare' ancora una volta una ricetta della tradizione da La Cucina Italiana, e a presentare il quindim, piccolo tortino di cocco e lime. Una vera delizia, facilissima da realizzare, da servire fredda, indicata per un cena di tarda primavera o per una merenda estiva. Magari funziona da buon auspicio, chissà.
QUINDIM
Nota: l'origine del nome quindim è probabilmente africana, mentre la provenienza di questo famoso dolcetto brasiliano potrebbe essere portoghese: l'uso consistente dei tuorli nella preparazione dei dolci, infatti, è una caratteristica tipica del Portogallo e i quindim la riprendono, completando con il cocco, ingrediente invece molto brasiliano, che aromatizza il dolce, assolvendo alla funzione svolta, in Europa, dalle mandorle. La ricetta, molto diffusa in Brasile, è qui proposta nella sua formulazione più essenziale: alcuni, infatti, uniscono altri ingredienti al composto, come il latte, fresco o condensato, l'albume, la vaniglia....La fantasia di ognuno potrà completare la formula di questo dolce fresco, adatto per un dessert o una merenda estiva.
Dosi per circa 7 stampini
150 g di zucchero più un po'
50 g di cocco disidratato grattugiato
6 tuorli
burro
lime
Mettete il cocco grattugiato in una ciotola e bagnatelo con 100 g di acqua; mescolatelo con una frusta e lasciatelo riposare per qualche minuto, finché non sarà ben imbibito di acqua.
Aggiungete lo zucchero e 25 g di burro fuso. Grattugiate la scorza di un lime, poi spremete il frutto. Versate nel composto 2-3 cucchiai di succo e profumatelo con un pizzico di scorza. Amalgamate il tutto con una frusta.
Unite al composto i tuorli e amalgamate bene, aiutandovi anche con un frullatore a immersione, per avere un composto più omogeneo.
Imburrate e cospargete con lo zucchero 6 stampini tipo crème caramel, poi riempiteli con il composto, aiutandovi con un mestolino.
Sistemate gli stampini in una teglia, versatevi acqua calda in modo che gli stampini risultino immersi per metà e cuocete i dolci a bagnomaria, nel forno a 180 °C, per 35'-40' (finché la base non risulterà dorata). Sfornate, lasciate intiepidire, quindi sformateli, capovolgendo gli stampini. Serviteli freddi, meglio se di frigo, completandoli a piacere con scorza di lime grattugiata oppure con altro succo o fettine di lime.
Questo dolce si può preparare anche con il cocco fresco (150 g): in questo caso, non sarà necessaria la fase di "ammollo" in acqua. Si può procedere direttamente amalgamando il cocco grattugiato con gli altri ingredienti, aggiungendo acqua, o il latte del cocco, se dovesse risultare troppo denso. Prestate attenzione, inoltre, quando preparate il vassoio per la cottura a bagnomaria: è consigliabile posizionare gli stampini nella teglia, metterla nel forno e come ultima cosa riempirla con l'acqua calda: in questo modo eviterete di scottarvi.
che colore meraviglioso...davvero un raggio di sole!!!
RispondiEliminaNon conoscevo questo dolce, me lo segnerò...
Ciao Simo, neanch'io lo conoscevo ed è stata una piacevolissima scoperta.
EliminaUn abbraccio
:) mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm forse mi piacciono ;) Il Portogallo è una delle terre dove vorrei vivere.
RispondiEliminaGrazie! A chi lo dici....anch'io!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
EliminaBaci
Il Portogallo mi manca, ma mi viene da dritti che se ti piacciono i dolci senza mezze misure, allora tu andresti a nozze con la pasticceria turca. Per me piccole quantità però devo dire che un assaggio mi fa precipitare dentro una novella delle Mille e una Notte. Davvero qualcosa di fuori dal mondo, evocativi anche nelle forme. Mi piacciono questi budinetti, mi piace la storia che hai raccontato, mi piace il colore e mi fa venire voglia di sole. Chi non ne ha in questo momento?
RispondiEliminaUn bacio mi bella signora del sole.
PAt
Te l'ho detto cara Patty....signora del sole (bella per giunta!) non me l'aveva mai detto nessuno/a. E mi piace tanto. Concordo sulla pasticcera turca e ti ringrazio per il suggerimento...i miei tornano proprio domani dalla Turchia e ho appena mandato un sms per vedere se mi portano qualche assaggino :)))
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